When Rey Jaffet and I went to Paslang with GIVE – Growth International Volunteer Excursions, we stayed at Hotel Brindaban, an inn near Paslang. Nearby, at the top of the hill there looked to be some sort of complex. Very early the next morning a melodic chant started and continued all morning long. We found out we were at the foot of the hill that the Guru Gorakhnath cave and hermitage lay. A temple to Hanuman had also been built. The city of Gorkha and the famous Gurkha troops are named after the yogi saint and guru. Some of his followers are known as the Naths and wear huge earrings that stretch their ears. Many are ascetics, some forgoing all worldly possessions.
Gorkanath is considered a Maha – Yogi or Great Yogi. He is thought by some scholars to be responsible for the spread of Hatha Yoga, the physical Asana poses. The true purpose of the elaborate poses is to calm the mind and enter a meditative state. He also is considered to be an incarnation of Shiva.
Ironically, or perhaps by divine intervention, I had studied about Gorkanath in preparing for the trip. Not having a clue we would stay within walking distance of his cave. But I had read that the city was named for him and that he was very influential in the area and the spread of yoga as a whole. I was fortunate enough to be able to teach a few yoga classes to the GIVE volunteers. Feeling that the volunteers would benefit from learning a little more than the standard yoga poses. Most of the volunteers were from the USA and Australia and it was the majority’s first time in Nepal. The rich history of the city of Gorkha and how it relates to the history of yoga was interesting, and more holistic learning, in addition to the basic yoga poses. It was fabulous to sit on the roof of the hotel, at the foot of Gorkanath’s mountain cave and the Hanuman Temple, with beautiful melodic chanting in the distance, the fog rolling in the valley below, and the sun starting to light up the Himalayas in the distance. It was exciting to teach them some yoga, and a little history, on the roof of our hotel, within chanting distance of the very cave that Gorkanath had spent some of his life, and taught many disciples yoga.
The next day walking up to the top of the hill I was thrilled to find out that the yearly Rot Mahotsav festival was going on. For the last 700 years, once a year on Baisakh Purnim, the festival is celebrated in honor of the Maha Yogi, Guru Gorkanath at this very temple. And it was occurring while we were there. Synchronicity? It’s hard for me to believe so. The celebration was amazing, blaring Kirtan music, dancing, and festively dressed women wearing traditional Tapālan. These tunics are made up of a dazzling array of rich colors, vibrant patterns, intricate beads and are worn with elaborate jewelry. Tiny glass bead necklaces, each minuscule bead threaded by hand, by the thousands on a fine string. Many wore beautiful gold nose rings, some connected by chain to their earrings. Most women and men wore Tikkas or Tilaka, the red dot, a blessing, or a symbol of honor, in the center of their forehead. Married women have the dot extended into their hairline. Followers of Shiva may have three horizontal lines, followers of Vishnu a yellow half-moon. During the festival, people sported red and yellow, and some (myself included) looked like they had grains of something else applied with red paste.
I had the good fortune to meet several of the musicians, and Kirtan singers. An extremely tall gentleman, who spoke English introduced himself. He spoke to me about my Mala and advised on how to best “make medicine”, essentially on how to properly hold it. I have since learned that the original term of “medicine” in the East means something to best align one’s energies. Herbs, teas, acupuncture, ti chi, yoga, etc. are all Medicine in this sense. This tall yogi politely excused himself and went off to take the microphone and begin a beautiful chant, a repetitive chant, over and over again. He was the one that we had heard chanting at dawn the day before while doing yoga. They invited me back the next day when the festival would go into full swing.
The next day after visiting Rey at the mural, I went back to the festival. I met another gentleman who spoke English very well. He invited me to get something cold to drink. It was very hot. He and his wife took me down below the temple to a large complex where there was one area, an open-air cafe, or restaurant. We enjoyed a cold Sprite, my go-to cold beverage when traveling in exotic places. It’s good if I need a little energy, or other drinks are not available. There was a large second area where huge kitchens were preparing wonderful fresh food. Everyone who attended the festival was invited to eat, and most people did eat. Literally, thousands of people a day are fed for free. All food or money for food is provided by donation. We went back up the hill, where it became apparent my new friend was one of the main attractions of the festival. He led the festival-goers in a couple of uproarious Kirtan musical celebrations, his wife and others singing back up. I sat next to the band, photographing the crowd and musicians to my heart’s contents. After the music was over and warmly shaking hands all around, it was getting dark.
I went back down to the large kitchen and dining areas. I was served a fabulous vegetarian feast. Eating and food are a major occurrence in Nepal. They tend to serve a very large first helping. And then offer you seconds while you are still working on the first! And being one of only a few westerners, they offered me seconds and thirds. Several different people came to try to offer. I could not eat another bite. I waddled back down the hill to the hotel. It was a fabulous day!
